Another Kitchen Mallet

There is something about woodworking projects - probably true with most of what we do, but not with mass produced products - is that the moment we finish one, we immediately see a better one or a different way of doing it.  Obviously, one can always find a better mouse trap.

Below: gluing up three strips of marble wood.

Flattening the joints on a belt sander

 Creating the channel to both sides of each half of the mallet head to receive the cheek of the handle. A 3/4 inch stacked dado make an easy one pass-cut. Gluing them together afterwards allow for a 3/4 by 3/4 square mortise.

 Cross cutting the excess parts

The handle is a laminate of Oak, cherry and zebra wood.

 A tenon cutting jig allows for a safe cut of the tenon for the wedges.

 A poly-carbonate cutting board was used for each face of the mallet head

The Router Table

The router table is likely number three in line of importance and utility in a workshop next to No.1 - Table Saw and No.2 - Work Bench.  However, there had been occasions where it is number 1.  That happens when there is just no other way, or no safer or easy way, an operation or a particular cut can be made without it. There are now many router tables and accessories in the market to suit almost everyone's taste or willingness to pay.  There will be more in the future as new technology develops.  There had been many in the past that did not quite make it as a sustainable brand in a very competitive environment.

But I lament one particular system that did not make it commercially despite its initial and dramatic success.  And it is still, in my opinion, the best there is.  It was ahead of its time when the company was founded in the early 90's.  I bought the top model of its positioning system (fence and clincher) and its router lift assembly in late 90's.  It still works with not a single repair or even a call to tech support.  That is how reliable it is and how clearly the instructions were put together (in glossy prints and color in some) in binders.

It was a business failure for reasons that perhaps MBA schools should make into a case study. But its technology was far and above its competition then.  However, it lives on because I think a prominent tool maker has adopted its system (hopefully, the founder made a little bit of money, if he sold the patent) 

The San Antonio, TX manufacturer had about three models then.  I purchased this one, then constructed the cabinet from a plan provided by the manufacturer. 

It is a positioning system where the extruded aluminum fence is connected to a movable rail system that slidess forward or backwards relative to the position of the router attached underneath the table. The wheel rotates one click at a time, which moves the fence at 1/1000 inch increments.

The black flap (below) labeled "Clincher" in yellow has three functions: Down - locked position; Halfway Up - activates the wheel to rotate; Completely Up - allows the rail to slide freely, deactivates the wheel from rotating.

The router housing holds (clamp) various router models - very heavily constructed for vibration free operation. There are three threaded steel rods for a balanced upward and downward motion of the router base assembly, actuated by a crank that runs the fluted rod (near one of the threaded rods shown)

A sliding platform is a nice accessory to support work pieces either flat to the table surface or perpendicular to it. Also shown are the various router bits designed for dovetail and finger joints.

It came with an excellent dust collection capacity (shop vac and hoses not included)

Here are just  a few examples of the operations done on the router table.  This particular system will accurately find the center of a board, flat or on edge, without measuring or marking.  It will also make cuts at accurate regular intervals without marking.

If you find a used one on the internet, it is worth a look.  I saw one a while back but it sold quickly.

Arts & Craft Style LED Desk Lamp

Arts and Crafts Style Furniture started in late 1800 through early 1900 in the U.S. It is a broad category, still popular today, and is typically defined by simple straight lines with very little decorative flair, very much unlike that of the Victorian period style. They were simple perhaps but capably built with solid wood. I wanted this latest LED desk lamp to follow that style using the minimum amount of material.  Minimalist, but it must be robustly constructed as to defy its seemingly frail look.  And it can actually be dis-assembled into its three main components.  And re-assembled just as easily. That was the plan.  Don't get me wrong because it did go as planned but it took three weeks on and off to finish.  Well, hobbyist woodworkers who like originals , will have to deal with prototypes and, as prototypes go, this one was a challenge, and not likely go into repeat production.  Once is enough for this one. (Or, it needs to be done a little differently).

The main parts are: one vertical post; two legs splayed attached to the base, as shown; L-shaped arm

First a square base.  Two identical slots were cut on the table saw to accommodate the legs.

The vertical post must have a hollow center for the wires to go through from the base to the arm.  I opted for a hexagonal cross section. 6 narrow slats cut to 60 deg. miter per side.

Packaging tapes or masking tapes will hold the slats temporarily, apply glue per adjoining sides, close and clamp with rubber bands.

The hexagonal theme is maintained with the cap to which the arm will be attached, base-holder and light switch.

The outer arm that will hold the LED strip is barely 1/4 inch thick. A glued laminate of 1/8 inch walnut and 1/8 inch oak provide rigidity to an otherwise thin piece.

A threaded bolt and knurled nut will secure the arm to the top of the center post.

The channels at the bottom of the base accommodate the wires.  In retrospect, this should have been cut on the router table while the base was still a square. The old fashion way was to cut the channel with chisels. 

Shown below is the outer arm with the LED strip.

New and old models below.  The old model is still at work on my drawing/reading desk.

Tip: Buy the light switch from the auto parts store. Typically they are 12 volt switches, which are what LED strips normally run on.  This one has a green indicator "pilot" light.

I can't touch-type and need to look at the key board wile typing so a desk lamp is more than just a decorative item.