The Tolerba Tool Box

It is the penultimate tool box because, in my opinion, there is no such thing as the ultimate perfect tool box. What could come close is the entire workshop with all the tools in it, if you can carry the whole thing with you. And that is the key to a tool box. Portability. With that criteria, the best we can hope for is to get close to the ideal. This is version 4 for me. What prompted it was the last project on installing the two drawers to an existing desk in the house. I made so many trips back and forth, for this and that tool. There is just simply no way to anticipate everything one needs inside the house without a few trips back and forth. So, here I go again.

This is a specialty tool box in that it is designed for specific tools but the methods used can be adapted to your particular tools.

I cut these panels first. They will determine the inside dimension of the box

                             

A dado blade set makes quick work of creating the dadoes as shown in next photo

Cut parts complete with 45 deg miters at each end, dado and 1/4 inch channels for the "floor" panels in each box

Glue up assembly

Scroll saw, or alternatively coping saw, was used to cut profiles of the drill battery base outline and reinforced with plywood backing (glued)

A dado blade set cut a channel on a piece of walnut, then ripped in half to create angular pieces to reinforce the corners..

The corner of a miter joint is not the strongest. So, an angular reinforcement at each corner is very effective.

Glue and screws later make these corners very strong.

Drilling various hole sizes for different drill accessories

The handles were 3 layers of  laminated 1/4 plywood (glued)

Drilled 1-1/4 inch holes on two layers of laminated plywood, then glued to another layer, it makes sense with the next two photos

Dry fitting

Dry fitting with the drills in place

Lines drawn before tapering at the table saw

Drilling 1/4 inch holes for drill bits and other accessories

   

Finishing with wipe on polyurethane

This hardwood bar - glued with screws - is a key "anchor" component where the uprights of the handle will slide into. A bolt knob will hold it in place while also adding more anchor strength (see next photo). 

The upright of the handles will be secured  two ways: The notch on the upright will slide into a bar, then a 1/4 inch bolt and knob will keep it in place

The thin hardwood pieces are where the plastic bins will clip into

Between the bolt and the slide, there is plenty of holding power to carry the heavy tool box.

Obviously, this is customized to my set of tools but the idea is to create a tool box for your needs.

The screws that secures the 1-1/4 rod is not completely tight to allow for the handle to rotate ever so slightly. This prevents the stress on the hand grip when carrying the tool box

View of one side, showing some of the "quick-connect-disconnect" drill accessories

View from the other side

There will be less than a dozen times in a year that this tool box will venture out of the workshop, so it will mostly be on a shelf. It was worth all the trouble because it does get the tools organized. And when the need arises ...

Drawer Slides 'n Guides

Twenty years ago I made this computer desk for my wife. I had since made anther one for her. This old one became my desk. It had no drawers and I never saw the need for any but when I wanted to try box joinery, shown in the next photo, I found just the place for the drawers. But, as you can tell the desk does not have rails or guides to accommodate the drawers. The challenge was how to build and mount the guides - using the least amount of material and with as little disruption to the desk.

Used same 1/2 inch Baltic plywood as the drawers.

Tip: Brass spacer keys are a quick way to adjust table saw guide from the saw blade - 1/2 inch, in this case.

Ripped 1/2 by 1/2 inch walnut that will be used as drawer guide rails.

Pocket holes will serve in attaching one of the guides underneath the desk. See how it works later.

The 1/2 inch walnut were glued to the edges of the plywood guide, screws provided added strength

Dry fitting the drawer box

Counter sunk holes are for attaching one mating guide with screws to the side of the desk

Tip: The walnut rails were initially longer and cut after the glue had dried for a perfect flush with the plywood guide support ends.

Half of the guide panel is attached with screws as shown

Tip: Inserting a plastic spacer, then tighten the guide panels with the drawer sandwiched in between provides for just the right space - not too loose, not too tight - for the drawers to slide in and out, once the spacer is removed after installing with screws.

The other half of the guide panel is attached through the pocket holes

Double sided tapes are a way to hold the drawer face to the drawer while adjusting its position on the box before attaching it with screws.

The desk now looks like it had drawers all along since twenty years ago.