If you look around your home the most likely common fixture are cabinets - from bathrooms, to kitchens, and chest of drawers in the bedrooms, etc. Like most woodworking hobbyists I hesitated early on to venture into making them before I got comfortable doing the "simple" stuff. But then the itch to build my own stereo speakers kicked in (see last photos below). It was a bold move considering I didn't have as many tools as I have now, let alone the experience or expertise. It was even bolder, if not entirely irrational or plain nutty) to spend over a thousand dollars in speaker components, sans the cabinets, in 1980's dollars. That's what happened when one is bug-bitten by obsession. But the raw (or kit) speaker manufacturer, Electro Voice (no longer making kits, I don't think) made it so enticing and re-assuring for the do-it-your-self-er, that I jumped in with one eye closed. That was then and many cabinets later I thought I'd share a simple project. This will be a single stand-alone side cabinet with drawers that will sit next to my small desk by the breakfast area. I needed drawers for drawing paper, drawing implements, etc. that my wife wants me to keep out of sight if I'm not doing any drawing. Oh, well ...
Using plywood to make cabinets is not only economical the stability of the material offers more structural sense. But we need to deal with the exposed edge of the plywood. So, first order of business is to rip thin strips of solid wood, oak in this case, to cover the edges.
I chose 3/4 inch Baltic plywood. It has no voids between the ply, as some plywood do.
To make the final cut more accurately manageable I first cut the four parts into slightly over-sized dimensions. Tip: I personally find it easier to make the cut more accurate when the saw blade is removing a sliver (like shaving) and the tool is not under too much stress. I do this whenever possible specially on miter cuts when the blade is tilted. Note: a stop block should be used if the board is shorter than the miter guide.
Glue was used to join the strips to one edge. Tip: By simultaneously clamping two separate pieces, edge to edge, clamping force is applied more evenly. Ordinarily when clamping just one piece at a time it is mandatory to use a rigid straight edge between the clamp and the work pieces for even pressure; otherwise, use more clamps along the edge.
The strips were intentionally slightly wider than the plywood edge. The excess can then be made perfectly flush. A hand plane, sand paper, etc. will do that but here the router table and a flush trim bit makes quick work.
The 45 degree miter and final cut was made at the table saw. By the way, the table saw just makes it convenient but a hand-held circular saw guided by a straight edge will make the cut just as effectively. In fact, I used it in making the speaker cabinets. Tip: for large pieces of boards the circular saw will probably be safer than running them through the table saw.
Using this method of corner clamping to join the pieces is very effective. See previous blog on this method. (See the "featured blog" - Fixture for stronger corner joints by clicking the title at upper right hand)
A back panel cover was glued to the back side which, by the way, adds tremendous strength to the joints. In commercially-made cabinets the back panels are nailed or stapled.
The cabinet will be next to a plant stand by the table so I made the cabinet legs match the ones on the stand. Glue and biscuit joinery could have been used but I thought I'd show-case once more the effectiveness of pocket hole joinery, in the following photos. You will note that the pocket holes are going to be entirely invisible to the outside view.
The right angle accessory attachment to the drill makes easy work of driving the pocket hole screws on the inside; otherwise, the pocket holes should be placed outside (or, this is where biscuit, dowel, and other joinery should be used to avoid exposing pocket holes)
This blog is just all about the cabinet. A following blog will be about making the drawers. So, till then...
Meanwhile, this was the speaker built in the early 80's. As mentioned, I used a hand-held circular saw to cut the work pieces including the 45 degree corner miter. The speaker manufacturer specified the dimensions, including the rectangular hole at the lower center. The "hole" is critical to this "bass-reflex" design of the speaker system. Not shown are internal braces between the front and back panel and the electronic dividing network. The latter regulates the output of the woofer, the mid range horn and the tweeter horn. How did it sound? If you played Tchaikovsky's 1812 overture as recorded by Telarc Recording of the Cincinnati Orchestra using actual digital recording of the Fifth Virginia Regiment cannons during the finale, you will actually feel as well as hear the booming sound as if you were there next to them. The mid-range horn accurately captures the raspy voices of jazz singers, soft delivery of vocals, or the localization of the cello and oboe, etc.
Unfortunately, the speakers now serve mainly as flower stands because smaller cube speakers for surround sound of today's new audio-video systems made the behemoths almost an anachronism. But someday, if only I can convince my wife to go along, I will have vacuum tube amplifiers playing vinyl records on a turn table (which I still have) with these speakers.
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